The Discreet charm of denim from Reserved
Boho, retro, rave. The latest denim collection by Reserved draws a lot on the stylish past. But that, overall, boils down to a forward looking effect.
It has been 150 years since jeans were invented, and over half a century ago Diana Vreeland, a famous fashion editor, made the following comment: “Blue jeans are the most beautiful things since the gondola”. Today, denim still rules on the catwalks and on the streets. It is a key element of the new Reserved collection. Following the global streetwear trends, Reserved designers get inspired by fashion history. By drawing on various aesthetics and subcultures from the past, they manage to come up with a modern collection with plenty of references to the 1970s and 1990s. Eclectic as it is – the collection is certainly harmonious in terms of style.
The women’s designs have a strong vintage vibe to them. That is visible from cuts to textures and colour scheme. The collection features straight, high waist jeans, wrap coats, wide dresses with a high slit, crop tops and crop, oversize jackets. What’s new is the denim shirt dresses (buttoned up) with an open V-neckline and wrapped high on the waistline. Details play a huge part here – distressed fabrics – so 1990s aesthetics, marble patterns or ombre prints. Everything in a somewhat washed out colour palette, dusty blue, pale yellow or ivory. Retro denim cuts in the campaign are broken by other vintage throwbacks like cycling shorts, tight T-shirts and snake-pattern trousers, which only emphasizes their rave character.
The men’s line, on the other hand, is filled with 1970s references. The essentials comprise narrow, navy blue jeans and light blue shirts. Denim total looks are certainly in – featuring white trousers and denim jackets in the same colour, e.g. white or mixing denim top and bottom in different shades of denim. The key reference is to romantic male film characters of the 1970s. Spending holidays on the Italian coast or the French Riviera. Hence the denim is paired with retro patterned shirts, corduroy jackets and white and navy blue striped shirts. The looks are complemented by patterned cravats (scarves tied around the neck), retro sunglasses and leather loafers.
The campaign of the line itself, inspired by the film-like photography of William Eggleston, an American photographer, is also kept in the retro frame. Its location in exotic landscapes, seaside scenery and modernist interiors adds to the melancholic character of the photographs. The nostalgic mood of the photos says a lot about the collection itself: nonchalant, but sophisticated. Subtle, yet sexy. www.reserved.com